The name should tell it all. http://www.lastracciavocc.it/
I was treated to an incredible meal today at Osteria La Stracciavocc. My hosts knew my love for fish and couldn't wait to take me to this restaurant. I was excited, but little did I know what I was in store for. Italians start lunch around 1pm. Raffael and Vilna have a great sense of humor and I didn't realize they were serious when they said we weren't going to have dinner that night.
As we approach the restaurant the aromatic tentacles immediately drew me in and alerted me of the tasty journey I was about to embark on. Yummm...
It took all my of will power to leave the bread basket alone. There were delicious chunks of foccacia just begging to be devoured. We had not eaten since the morning cafe and biscotti. No, I must resist.
I lost count as to the number of courses we enjoyed that day. I can tell you we ate for 5 hours straight. Believe it. Come to Italy and experience it yourself. You owe it to yourself if you haven't already. All the stories you've heard about great food, love and beauty...it's all true!
I have never had food this good! Oysters, mussels, shrimp, calamari, fish, things I do not know the names of... Grilled, raw, steamed, fried, chopped, diced, whipped... And then there's dessert. Somehow I found the room. Oh yeah. Count me in! We had 2 desserts and some cafe. Now I know why there is always that extra strong Italian espresso at the end of a meal. That's how you stay awake from the food coma.
I later found out what Stracciavocc meant. It means something which breaks your mouth. How appropriate!
Sunday, June 21, 2009
Italian Lesson Gadgets!
Ohhhh yeah, a little Italian Word of the Day, and some lessons thrown in to the right, and you're almost good to go!
The Word of the Day has the cursory feature of today's word spoken for you. For those that actually understand what conjugation even means, then pressing the conjugate button will tickle your brainiac penchant for dissecting languages with scalpel precision.
If you're the flashcard or rapid-fire test taking type, then the Internet Polyglot language lessons might sharpen your skills. First choose a subject to narrow your vocab words, then review a list of words, and optionally listen to them. When you're ready you can elect to test your knowledge and prove unto yourself, once again, you truly are the multi-lingual wo/man of mystery you were always destined to be.
Now I just need to add an airfare alert gadget on the sidebar and we can all go visit Mary at a moments notice! ^__^
The Word of the Day has the cursory feature of today's word spoken for you. For those that actually understand what conjugation even means, then pressing the conjugate button will tickle your brainiac penchant for dissecting languages with scalpel precision.
If you're the flashcard or rapid-fire test taking type, then the Internet Polyglot language lessons might sharpen your skills. First choose a subject to narrow your vocab words, then review a list of words, and optionally listen to them. When you're ready you can elect to test your knowledge and prove unto yourself, once again, you truly are the multi-lingual wo/man of mystery you were always destined to be.
Now I just need to add an airfare alert gadget on the sidebar and we can all go visit Mary at a moments notice! ^__^
Saturday, June 20, 2009
Angelo
I went for a walk today and met my new friend, Angelo. After having a big lunch I decided it would be good to walk it off a bit. I headed out and continued for 30 minutes in one direction. It would be easy to find my way back this way. The sky was cloudy and overcast, which made for pleasant walking conditions.
At this point I've walked past the town. The sidewalk ended and I probably should have stopped walking on this road. There wasn't much of a shoulder on this mountainous 2 way street. I could see the ocean the whole time and wanted to see how far I could make it on this road.
Somewhere along the way I was startled by a stray dog. He started sniffing me and following me for a few feet. "Get away!" I told him as I didn't want to have any ticks from a stray dog. He wouldn't leave until another stray started barking at him. Now it is starting to drizzle and the sun will be going down soon. I turn around headed for home.
The black dog rejoins me and I do my best to shoo him off. I tell him to leave, but he just smiles at me and wags his taile. I stopped to look at him and he is rather cute actually. Shiney black coat, fit and a wagging tail. Whatever. If he wants to walk with me he can. So we share the road together. I keep a quick pace and pay no attention to him.
The road is slick from the rain. Cars are zipping by. Visibility is mediocre.
The dog starts walking in a "S" curve back and forth between the edges of the road. I thought this was what stray dogs did. I thought they walked this way because they were always hunting for something or marking their territory. It wasn't until he stood on my feet that I realized what he was doing. He was keeping me safe on my walk home. As he walked the "S" curve all the cars slowed down as they approached us because they could see him. He would often run ahead to see if there were any oncoming cars. Then, he would come back and get me as if to say, "the coast is clear." And at times he would stand on my feet preventing me from walking until it was safe again. He escorted me all the into town and to my house. Even the dogs in Italy are full of love.
Angelo. That's what I've named my dog.
At this point I've walked past the town. The sidewalk ended and I probably should have stopped walking on this road. There wasn't much of a shoulder on this mountainous 2 way street. I could see the ocean the whole time and wanted to see how far I could make it on this road.
Somewhere along the way I was startled by a stray dog. He started sniffing me and following me for a few feet. "Get away!" I told him as I didn't want to have any ticks from a stray dog. He wouldn't leave until another stray started barking at him. Now it is starting to drizzle and the sun will be going down soon. I turn around headed for home.
The black dog rejoins me and I do my best to shoo him off. I tell him to leave, but he just smiles at me and wags his taile. I stopped to look at him and he is rather cute actually. Shiney black coat, fit and a wagging tail. Whatever. If he wants to walk with me he can. So we share the road together. I keep a quick pace and pay no attention to him.
The road is slick from the rain. Cars are zipping by. Visibility is mediocre.
The dog starts walking in a "S" curve back and forth between the edges of the road. I thought this was what stray dogs did. I thought they walked this way because they were always hunting for something or marking their territory. It wasn't until he stood on my feet that I realized what he was doing. He was keeping me safe on my walk home. As he walked the "S" curve all the cars slowed down as they approached us because they could see him. He would often run ahead to see if there were any oncoming cars. Then, he would come back and get me as if to say, "the coast is clear." And at times he would stand on my feet preventing me from walking until it was safe again. He escorted me all the into town and to my house. Even the dogs in Italy are full of love.
Angelo. That's what I've named my dog.
Introducing Maria Del Sordo
I have officially been adopted by my host parents, Raffael and Vilna Del Sordo. Lucky me! We live in a little town in the country named Mosciano. Nestled snuggly on a hill it overlooks Giulianova, a coastal town on the Adriatic Sea. This town of 8,000 people have buildings dating back to the Medieval times. There are rolling hills, farmed pastures and winding roads. Everyone knows one another. There is a shop for each specialty: meats, fish, vegetables and fruits.
Vilna speaks some broken English and Raffael only speaks Italian to me. He and I went out shopping for food one afternoon. In the car, he was joking about adopting me as his daughter. So when we went into the pasta shop and he introduced me to a friend of his, I said my name was Maria Del Sordo. Ohhh! And from that point forward it has become official.
I always knew I spent many lifetimes as an Italian. Now I know my name.
Vilna speaks some broken English and Raffael only speaks Italian to me. He and I went out shopping for food one afternoon. In the car, he was joking about adopting me as his daughter. So when we went into the pasta shop and he introduced me to a friend of his, I said my name was Maria Del Sordo. Ohhh! And from that point forward it has become official.
I always knew I spent many lifetimes as an Italian. Now I know my name.
Friday, June 19, 2009
Costo Troppo!!!!
With an electrifing supply of caffeine in my body I was ready to hit the bazzar with my friends, Tiziana and Donatella. During the car ride to San Benedetto, where the market was, I learned a few phrases. And really, the only phrase I needed to arm myself with that day was, costo troppo.
We get to the market before 8am and it was already a hot summer day. All the vendors were set up and the shoppers were ready, too. It was huge. There were tons of shoes, hand bags, clothes, house hold items, you name it.
I found a pair of shorts that I liked and asked for the price, "quando costo?" The merchant told me 15 Euros. Eh, that was probably slightly inflated, but ok. Donatella and Tiziana looked at me and waited for me to respond. "Costo troppo!" I exclaimed with the best exaggerated Italian accent and gesture I could produce. The merchants starred in disbelif and didn't know what to do. My friends just laughed up a storm because they taught me to say that to every price a merchant offers, even if it is a penny. I basically said, "That's way overpriced!" with huge attitude.
We get to the market before 8am and it was already a hot summer day. All the vendors were set up and the shoppers were ready, too. It was huge. There were tons of shoes, hand bags, clothes, house hold items, you name it.
I found a pair of shorts that I liked and asked for the price, "quando costo?" The merchant told me 15 Euros. Eh, that was probably slightly inflated, but ok. Donatella and Tiziana looked at me and waited for me to respond. "Costo troppo!" I exclaimed with the best exaggerated Italian accent and gesture I could produce. The merchants starred in disbelif and didn't know what to do. My friends just laughed up a storm because they taught me to say that to every price a merchant offers, even if it is a penny. I basically said, "That's way overpriced!" with huge attitude.
Thursday, June 18, 2009
Coffee Coffee Coffee Coffee Coffee
Umm...yeah. Italian coffee is delicious, and it is also 50 times stronger than what is found in America. I found out through experience. I woke up, today, the second day of my stay here and stumbled into the kitchen at 7am. Ahg, the only reason I got up so early was to meet Tiziana and go to the market for some shopping. Coffee was waiting for me already. I ASSUMED, and you know what happens when we assume anything, the whole thing was for me. Ohhhhh nooooooo it wasn't. hahahahaha. I took a cappuccino sized mug full of espresso strength cafe and ran out the door to meet my friend. So what happened to me? Racing heart, perspiration, slight nausea... caffeine overdose. When we got to the market everyone stopped for some cafe before the day's activity. They gasped in uber disbelief as I refused to have cafe with them. I could feel the disappointment in the air. She's not one of us yet. Oh, if they only knew. I think another serving of cafe would have put me in the hospital!
Arriving in Italy
Ciao Everyone! I made it to Italy! What a feat.
The flight to Germany was mostly smooth and I had a 5 hour lay over in Munich. Then the 1 hour flight to Rome was quite easy. From there it was incredible that I could find the train and bus (with transfer) all the way across the country to Giulianova...all the while without knowing any Italian. My hosts asked me how I made it to Giulianova. I said by God's will. Truly!
When I landed I bought a calling card but couldn't reach my English speaking contact, Tiziana. I left a message, but she had no number to reach me at since I didn't have an Italian cell phone number yet. They didnt sell sim cards at the airport. Oh it was so funny. However, I never once worried. I said on the message to her that I was just going to find my way over to Giulianova and figure it out. From within the airport is a bridge leading to the train system, Trenitalia. I step into a sea of commuters going home at the 5:30pm rush hour. All signs were in Italian and I have yet to learn the language. I look at my Italian phrase book, which my brother bought me at the Newark Airport minutes before departure. Thank god for big brothers! I clear my throat and bellow out into the mad rush of finely tailored suits, "Eh, scuzzi! Dov'e la trein a Tiburtina?" Luckily, this exquisitly dressed business man spoke English. He must have taken one look at me with my 4 foot tall back pack and rolling carry-on and made the snap judgement that this chick is American. He directed me down a corridor and said to keep going. And so I did.
Having traveled quite a bit in the past, I know not to show obvious signs of being a tourist. I think my cover is blown at this point. I see no other backpackers in sight.
I find the station and there are half a dozen ticket vendors, as well as, several self-serve kiosks. There was one huge line with the official Trenitalia and none with the other vendors. Why is this? Naturally, I went to one of the open vendors and asked if the prices were the same with each vendor. He said yes. So I asked why everyone was only on that line. He shrugged his shoulders. Well, I don't do lines, so I bought my ticket there. Soon lines were forming behind me and I confirmed that the prices really were the same with all the vendors. Strange, but something good to know if you are traveling here.
I arrive to the Tiburtina Stazione by train in order to catch the bus to Giulianova. The bus station is somewhere outside amongst an array of options. Hmm...what to do? I know enough at this point to as, "Where is the bus station for Giulianova?" However, I discovered that I did not know enough to understand the answer. Oops! Sign language has always been something I was interested in learning. And the Italian "sign language" is another story. They are quite expressive with their gestures and body language. Anyway, I get the idea and keep it moving. I decided to wait on this slow moving line, only to find out it wasn't the one for Giulianova. Bad decision. I quickly find the appropriate window and buy my ticket. The bus arrives and I ask to confirm if it is the bus to Giulianova. Again, I had no understanding of the language and at the speed of his speech I simply nodded and smiled. That usually works.
I slept for much of the way across the country. At this point I've probably been traveling for about 14 hours or so.
I called Tiziana again before I got on the bus. No go. There wouldn't be a chance to call her again since I'd be in transit the whole time. By the time I reached Giulianova it was 10:30pm. The payphones were a bit tricky and I was able to find some assistance from a young boy. I dial the number and the first phone was broken. The next phone was the only other phone left. I dial...and Tiziana picks up on the first ring. Ah! Victorious! Raffael will meet me by foot and she is driving over right away. I am to wait at the bus station. Then the phone dies and we are disconnected.
Less than a minute later there we all were kissing and embracing as Italians do. I meet a van load of loving parents. Ahhh...I exhale and feel right at home.
The flight to Germany was mostly smooth and I had a 5 hour lay over in Munich. Then the 1 hour flight to Rome was quite easy. From there it was incredible that I could find the train and bus (with transfer) all the way across the country to Giulianova...all the while without knowing any Italian. My hosts asked me how I made it to Giulianova. I said by God's will. Truly!
When I landed I bought a calling card but couldn't reach my English speaking contact, Tiziana. I left a message, but she had no number to reach me at since I didn't have an Italian cell phone number yet. They didnt sell sim cards at the airport. Oh it was so funny. However, I never once worried. I said on the message to her that I was just going to find my way over to Giulianova and figure it out. From within the airport is a bridge leading to the train system, Trenitalia. I step into a sea of commuters going home at the 5:30pm rush hour. All signs were in Italian and I have yet to learn the language. I look at my Italian phrase book, which my brother bought me at the Newark Airport minutes before departure. Thank god for big brothers! I clear my throat and bellow out into the mad rush of finely tailored suits, "Eh, scuzzi! Dov'e la trein a Tiburtina?" Luckily, this exquisitly dressed business man spoke English. He must have taken one look at me with my 4 foot tall back pack and rolling carry-on and made the snap judgement that this chick is American. He directed me down a corridor and said to keep going. And so I did.
Having traveled quite a bit in the past, I know not to show obvious signs of being a tourist. I think my cover is blown at this point. I see no other backpackers in sight.
I find the station and there are half a dozen ticket vendors, as well as, several self-serve kiosks. There was one huge line with the official Trenitalia and none with the other vendors. Why is this? Naturally, I went to one of the open vendors and asked if the prices were the same with each vendor. He said yes. So I asked why everyone was only on that line. He shrugged his shoulders. Well, I don't do lines, so I bought my ticket there. Soon lines were forming behind me and I confirmed that the prices really were the same with all the vendors. Strange, but something good to know if you are traveling here.
I arrive to the Tiburtina Stazione by train in order to catch the bus to Giulianova. The bus station is somewhere outside amongst an array of options. Hmm...what to do? I know enough at this point to as, "Where is the bus station for Giulianova?" However, I discovered that I did not know enough to understand the answer. Oops! Sign language has always been something I was interested in learning. And the Italian "sign language" is another story. They are quite expressive with their gestures and body language. Anyway, I get the idea and keep it moving. I decided to wait on this slow moving line, only to find out it wasn't the one for Giulianova. Bad decision. I quickly find the appropriate window and buy my ticket. The bus arrives and I ask to confirm if it is the bus to Giulianova. Again, I had no understanding of the language and at the speed of his speech I simply nodded and smiled. That usually works.
I slept for much of the way across the country. At this point I've probably been traveling for about 14 hours or so.
I called Tiziana again before I got on the bus. No go. There wouldn't be a chance to call her again since I'd be in transit the whole time. By the time I reached Giulianova it was 10:30pm. The payphones were a bit tricky and I was able to find some assistance from a young boy. I dial the number and the first phone was broken. The next phone was the only other phone left. I dial...and Tiziana picks up on the first ring. Ah! Victorious! Raffael will meet me by foot and she is driving over right away. I am to wait at the bus station. Then the phone dies and we are disconnected.
Less than a minute later there we all were kissing and embracing as Italians do. I meet a van load of loving parents. Ahhh...I exhale and feel right at home.
Wednesday, June 17, 2009
Arrival Itinerary
Mary landed in Rome at Fiumicino Airport (FCO) [ map ] at approximately 16:30. Her destination is a town named Giulianova. Situated 150 miles northeast, the coastal city is eagerly awaiting her arrival on the opposite coast. This distance is slightly less than the distance from New York City to Baltimore, Maryland. To cover the distance, she will most likely take a train to get across the peninsula.
View Larger Map
Her train options would be narrowed down to two stations, Ancona and Pescara. TrenItalia is the primary train system across the country, with smaller, local train companies servicing local routes. Although Giulianova seems closer to Pescara, there seems to be no service to Pescara upon arriving to Rome. She will probably head to Ancona and connect via bus or local rail to Giulianova[ map - satellite image ] .
View Larger Map
Her train options would be narrowed down to two stations, Ancona and Pescara. TrenItalia is the primary train system across the country, with smaller, local train companies servicing local routes. Although Giulianova seems closer to Pescara, there seems to be no service to Pescara upon arriving to Rome. She will probably head to Ancona and connect via bus or local rail to Giulianova
TrenItalia map of their route status.
Aerial view of the Giulianova coast.
Welcome to Mary's Adventures
Curious about where Mary is and what she is doing? Le Avventure di Maria covers her journey in Europe, starting with Italy. Until Mary finds an internet connection to blog about her pilgrimage, I will be conjecturing about her travels, and blogging about Italy and the locations she will be encountering. Feel free to add your insights and comments!
- Leto
- Leto
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